Dec 1, 2024
 in 
Beauty

To peel or not to peel? That is the skincare question

To peel or  not to peel? That is the skincare question

Story by Leslie Peck /  Photo by Getty Images

Happy Peel Season! Did you know there was such a thing? The best times of year to shed some skin are fall, winter and spring. After long summer days at the beach, boating or working in the yard, it’s time to give your skin a refresh.

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) chemical peels are used to remove the top layers of skin, exposing new, smooth, bright layers, and they are suitable for all skin types. Peels can tighten fine lines, remove sun damage and minimize scars. Light to medium TCA peels are noninvasive and typically have from zero to a couple of days of downtime. Some deeper peels might have multiple days of redness, flaking and peeling.

Depending on the type of peel and the experience of the professional administering it, the cost can range from $200 to $1,200 per session. Lighter peels may need a series of multiple appointments, whereas deeper peels are usually one. Compared to laser treatments, peels are the more cost-effective way to rejuvenate the skin on a regular basis.

Before you sign up, it’s important to understand your own skin and what you can tolerate, and that starts with knowing your Fitzpatrick skin type. According to SkinCancer.org, the Fitzpatrick skin typing system “classifies skin type according to the amount of skin pigment you have and your skin’s reaction to sun exposure.” Although peels are safe for all Fitzpatrick shades, olive and brown skin tones may not tolerate high levels of TCA, and a peel can cause some hypopigmentation afterward. Also, if you are prone to cold sores, you may want to take preventative medicine before the peel. TCA peels can reactivate cold sores.

To prepare for your peel, you should stop using retinoids, retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acids, beta hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide a couple of weeks before. It is best to refrain from any hair removal, shaving, waxing or laser a week prior as well. Always communicate with your dermatologist or aesthetician about any medications you are taking.

After a chemical peel, it is very important to keep the new, fresh skin out of the sunlight and hydrated for up to two weeks. Some peels have aftercare products included, or you may be instructed to use Aquaphor post peel. Never pick or remove shedding skin prematurely. It can scar if it does not come off on its own.  

Most peels have visible differences very soon after and some may take multiple rounds for the full effect. Always address questions or concerns with the person doing the peel. Results can vary after a peel, but most can last for months. Some of the lighter peels can be used regularly as boosters. Peels are a perfect way to get your skin looking its best within days.