Fall in love with Lisbon
Story and photos by Liz Biggs
Portugal is a southern European country on the Iberian Peninsula, bordering Spain. Its location on the Atlantic Ocean has influenced many aspects of its culture: salt cod and grilled sardines are national dishes, the beaches are a major destination, and the nation’s architecture is ancient, dating back to the 1500s. And of course, there is port wine. But port wine aside, the one thing that has (literally) put Portugal on the map is exploration. Portugal was one of the major players in the European Age of Discovery, taking the lead in the 15th and 16th centuries in searching for a route to Asia by sailing around Africa.
Portugal is tall, smart and handsome, but I fell in love with Lisbon. One of the oldest cities in the world, Lisbon is the third oldest capital city after Athens and Rome. It’s got everything you could want from a centuries-old European city: winding cobblestone streets, a skyline dotted with medieval castles, moody fado music, beautiful tilework everywhere, delicious food, and my favorite thing — it’s super walkable.
We spent five nights in Lisbon, but that was only a hook-up. For a full-blown love affair, plan to spend a week. And most importantly, book an Airbnb or hotel right smack-dab in the middle of town. Ours was in the Baixa neighborhood near bohemian Chiado, between the Alfama district and Bairro Alto. Here are some tips for an affair to remember.
THE BIG THINGS
Many of Lisbon’s must-see historic landmarks are located in the Belem area, along the Tagus River west of the city center. Be sure to visit Jeronimos Monastery and the Tower of Belem, both part of a World Heritage site. We also enjoyed a guided tour of the adjacent Maritime Museum. Near the vast Gothic Jeronimos Monastery, the popular Pasteis de Belem patisserie is famous for its custard tarts. Across the street is the towering Monument to the Discoveries which celebrates the seafaring history of Portugal with beautiful detailing on its sculpted figures, as well as cleverly hidden symbolism. The top of the monument is one of the best viewpoints of Lisbon. Walk a bit farther to see the A-shaped Monument to the Overseas Combatants, meant to reflect great simplicity and unified character — the unity between all peoples involved in war — without resentment.
After experiencing all the big things listed above, we took a riverside walk to the fantastic MAAT Museum (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) and had lunch at their outdoor restaurant overlooking the river. Be sure to walk up on the roof of the mod building for an amazing view. Look down upon the fabulous Joana Vasconcelos sculpture of an engagement ring on a monumental scale. The artist’s “Solitaire” is made up of 110 golden car rims crowned by an inverted pyramid composed of 1,450 crystal whiskey glasses, simulating a giant diamond.
A hop-on/hop-off tour is a great first date if you plan on falling in love with a city like Lisbon. Personally, I love seeing the kaleidoscope of old and new buildings and architecture from the comfort of my top deck, front row seat. You get your bearings, learn valuable history, and can jump off any time you see a place you want to visit. We jumped off and then jumped on a glass elevator up to the highest skyscraper in Portugal. Who knew? It was not on my to-do list, but the cute bartender made great cocktails up there so why not? Our ticket included a boat tour, a highlight of our trip.
THE LITTLE THINGS
They say it’s the little things that count in a relationship. So, if you really want to be a good lover, take the time to step away from the monuments and do the little things. Ride a vintage streetcar; tram 28 is the one that gives the best look of the city. First developed in 1914, the route was designed to take residents from the central Biaxa district to neighborhoods like Graca and Estrela, meandering through many sights and charming neighborhoods. We took a cable car/funicular up to the Bairro Alto (upper neighborhood) and enjoyed a sunset stroll and dinner al fresco.
The Santa Justa Lift, built in 1902 in the same style as the Eiffel Tower, can be a bit crowded and touristy, but we found it to be worth the wait. We didn’t make it to the National Tile Museum but heard it is worth the trip. Friends told us to go to the Santa Clara Flea Market, located in the Campo de Santa Clara, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Saturdays, so we missed it.
The Saint Jorge Castle is one of the highest points in the city, well worth the uphill hike for a beautiful view. Peacocks roam freely on the grounds which added to the allure. And don’t forget about the magnificent Rua Augusta Arch, although we just went for the photo, not the tour.
The city’s rooftop bars are well worth a visit, but locals tend to frequent the free “miradouros” (viewpoints) dotted around the city to watch the sun go down instead. The Miradouro das Portos do Sol is arguably most popular, thanks to its tiled décor and bougainvillea, but for a quieter experience try the Miradouro da Graca. Bring a picnic and a drink to enjoy while you soak up the vibes of the city.
THE COOL THINGS
No visit to Lisbon is complete without a walk through the historic suburbs of Alfama and Mouraria, which tumble down the hillside below the Saint Jorge Castle. I got quite lost on the narrow, winding cobblestone roads but knew if I kept going down, I’d get there eventually. I ended up in a beautiful waterfront oasis in the heart of Alfama and had lunch at a café listening to the sounds of a saxophone player in the distance. If you are there in the evening, head for Casa de Fados. Formerly the home of singer Maria Severa, it’s one of the best places in town to listen to the soulful sounds of Fado.
As we walked along Pink Street (Rua Nova do Carvalho), I snapped the obligatory pic of the vibrant pink street under the rainbow umbrella canopy. A bustling party hub, this pedestrian street is the center of Lisbon’s nightlife. Alas, Pink Street is way too young for me; he stays up way past my bedtime.
Located in the Alcantara district, west of Lisbon, the LX Factory was once home to Lisbon’s textile factories and has now become one of the coolest hangouts in the city. The area retains its industrial warehouse vibe, but is now home to shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars. I would have loved to check this area out, but we ran out of time.
SIDE TRIPS
When in Lisbon, save a day to go to the royal retreat of Sintra. Purchase your tickets in advance for the Pena National Palace, set in the Sintra mountains and created by King Ferdinand II. Traffic gets heavy, so try to book early morning tickets and make sure you give your Uber driver the correct address — there are three palaces in Sintra! We enjoyed the Sintra National Palace as well, had lunch in the quaint town, and walked to the Regaleira Palace. Wow, this UNESCO World Heritage site is the creepiest place I’ve ever been, especially the dungeon-ish Initiation Wells and eerie underground tunnels. If not pressed for time, follow the coast to the fishing town of Cascais and visit the seaside resort of Estoril.
FOOD AND WINE
I love seafood, but salted cod and grilled sardines are not my jam — not a big fan of truly authentic Portuguese food, especially the pig hooves and snouts. I like a more modern take on the farm to table concept. We had a fantastic meal at A Taberna da Rua das Flores. Chef Andre Magalhaes serves some of Lisbon’s most creative cooking. The chalkboard menu was not in English (always a good sign) but our server explained every dish and recommended wines. Prado and Alzur were highly recommended but book reservations in advance; we couldn’t get in. Cervejaria Ramero is worth the wait in line. The garlic shrimp is delicious as is the classic steak sandwich.
We took a few side trips to vineyards in the Douro Valley and although I don’t like port, I loved the local red and white table wines, especially the Vinho Verde.
Wise men say only fools rush in, but I can’t help falling in love with Lisbon. Cheers to an affair to remember.
