Christmas is about tradition — the nostalgic memories that pass from one generation to the next. For Dave Guardanapo, it’s the tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.

“In Italy, the ancient tradition is rooted in the teachings of the church and is celebrated on Christmas Eve by serving fish of all kinds, prepared in as many different ways as possible,’’ he said.

The Feast of the Seven Fishes has been called “a feast for the eyes — and the mouth.’’

As the owners of Crema, the Guardanapo family will observe the tradition by having such a feast on Dec. 20-24. It is open to the public as long as reservations are made in advance.

There are several theories as to the origin of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
It is believed by some Italian-Americans that one fish represents each day of the week. However, others hold to the belief that it comes from the observance of La Vigilla Di Natale — the wait for the birth of Christ — in which early Catholics fasted on Christmas Eve until receiving communion at Midnight Mass. Though in later years, food was allowed (with the exception of meat).

Other traditions say that seven fishes signify the Seven Sacraments of the Catholic Church, or the seven sins of the world, the seven hills of Rome, the seven wonders of the world, or the seven winds of Italy.

And just as there are many explanations for the origins, there are just as many variations on how the tradition is observed. In some families, three dishes are served, representing the Three Wise Men or the Holy Trinity.

While in some homes, there may be as many as 13 fishes served — one for each apostle, plus one for Jesus."
The version that Guardanapo will bring to Pensacola derives from a Naples tradition.
Although the origins of the tradition may be murky, the one thing that everyone knows for sure is that there’s plenty of good food ready for the table.

“I want Pensacolians to experience a real true feast with a lot of heritage behind it,’’ Guardanapo said. “I’m preparing the food from recipes that have been handed down through generations of my family and, believe me, it’s a long process to get it ready,’’ he said.

Want to Go?
What: Feast of Seven Fishes
Where: Crema, 1124 W. Garden St.
When: 5-8 p.m. Dec. 20-24.
Cost: $65 (not including wine).
Details: For information, call 470-5512.